What Are BIAB Nails? Here's Our Beauty Editor's Guide

Let's talk BIAB nails. Suited to all nail designs and nail shapes, this latest social media sensation, #biabnails has amassed millions of posts across social media. But what exactly is a BIAB manicure and how does it differ from shellac, acrylic nails or gel polish? We spoke to BIAB nail expert Alexandra Teleki to find out all you need to know from what it is, how to apply it and how long it lasts.

Meet The Experts

Celebrity manicurist Alexandra Teleki aka TheHotBlend is a world renowned manicurist and BIAB nail expert. Teleki has worked with major nail brands from The Gel Bottle through to Essie.

What is BIAB?

So, what is BIAB and Builder Gel? Let's start with the acronym itself. ‘BIAB stands for “builder in a bottle”, which is also known as builder gel,’ explains Teleki. 'It's a professional soak off range of nail products specifically designed to add strength and structure to your natural nails.’ If you're familiar with the brand The Gel Bottle, you'll know that they're credited with developing BIAB.

As aiding strength, length and protection is the BIAB MO here, expect a slighter thicker polish than your regular gel mani thanks to the protective layer that's applied.

The end result is a look that's very similar to a traditional gel manicure - expect the same high-shine, jelly like finish but with a more fortified nail.

Instagram @corrinnabianca

How is BIAB applied?

BIAB application is actually much like that of traditional gel and shellac manicures. Here's Teleki's step by step guide to builder in a bottle application.

Prep and buff: 'Your manicurist will prep and buff the nails using a nail file and buffer to allow the base to adhere to your natural nails. This is when a traditional manicure may be performed too using cuticle work.'

Apply BIAB: 'Next, your manicurist will apply a thin layer of BIAB polish over the natural nail. Once this base is evened out, it will be cured under a LED lamp. After this sets (in and around 60 seconds) comes the next layer. A thick, gel-like bead of BIAB gel will be pressed onto the nail bed and shaped around the nail in one go. As this is thicker than traditional gel, your manicurist will take more time to ensure the coverage is thin and natural around the edge of the nail and the cuticle before curing again.'

Refine: 'After buffing again, refining and removing any dust, your manicurist can apply a layer of traditional gel polish on the top, or finish with a topcoat to add gloss. It's at this point nail art can be added too.'

'Builder gel is an all-in-one, it contains a primer, a base coat, a colour and the builder gel in the mixture. All these ingredients mean we cut out four steps in the manicure process,' says Teleki.

Watch: BIAB Application Tutorial

How long does BIAB take to apply?

One thing I will say about BIAB nails is that, in my experience, it definitely takes longer than a traditional gel manicure. Expect to set aside around an hour and a half for the look. And, if you’re coupling it with a Russian manicure then it can take up to two hours. But, that said, you'll be visiting the nail salon much less frequently, so it's a win win situation.

What's the difference between BIAB and gel or shellac?

Developed by CND under the brand name Shellac, gel polish is a liquid polish that is hardened under a UV lamp. It is the process of 'curing' (using a UV lamp) that ensures the polish is chip-resistant and long-wearing. BIAB is a also a type of gel polish but one that's formulated with a stronger base, which assists nail growth. The only pitfall to bear in mind is that BIAB polishes are available in a limited shade range. But fret not, if you're sold on the trend but set on a shade that's not available in BIAB, you need only apply any other gel polish over a clear BIAB base.

What's the difference between BIAB and acrylic nails?

'Acrylic nails can are often formed using an extension and a a combination of a liquid acrylic monomer and a powder acrylic polymer - this process can be harsh on the nails,' says Teleki. 'BIAB is applied directly to the natural nail and cured using a lamp, providing it with a protective shell that will allow the nail to grow.'

Benefits of BIAB

What are the benefits of a BIAB manicure? Is BIAB good for your nails? The magic lies in what's happening beneath the coat of BIAB applied. While the consistency of the formula is thick, the added layers of protection enable nails to grow steadily and lessens the chances of breakage. In other words, if you have a biting habit, this may be your 'get out of jail free' card. 'The thickness of BIAB is what helps to reinforce strength, durability and protection from external factors like knocks and bumps. What's more, BIAB nail looks can be achieved without the need for glue or plastic tips, and it can also be used to repair broken nails,' explains Teleki. .

Instagram @corrinnabianca

How long does BIAB last?

A BIAB manicure can last up to three weeks, but with proper nail prep it can last much longer. 'Manicurists often don't advise keeping a BIAB set on for too long though,' explains Teleki, 'It's always great to give nails a break, then after around four weeks they can either be infilled or soaked off.'

How much does BIAB cost?

Depending on location you can expect to pay anywhere between £20 and £70 for BIAB nails - central London salons, for example, will be more expensive.

Beauty Editor Rachael's thoughts on BIAB

I only started my BIAB journey last year, and since my nails have become much longer and stronger. When using traditional polish and even gel polish, my nails became brittle and often snapped, so I never achieved the length I'd hoped for. Now? They’re so much more fortified and have grown incredibly long. Which I'll absolutely take.

The picture on the left was taken straight after my first BIAB manicure and the one on the right four weeks later. Although grown out, I couldn't believe how good my nails looked after a full month. There was no breakage or chipping and my nails had grown longer than they'd ever been before. I'm a total convert.

Image: Instagram @bbnailsuk

How do you remove BIAB?

Gel builder nail polish is not as simple to remove as regular polish. The thickness and durability of the formula means removing it can be quite the task, so it's always best to visit a professional to complete this job. But that's not to say you can't do it yourself.

First, you'll need a sturdy removal tool kit, which consists of a nail polish remover containing acetone, cotton pads, a cuticle pusher, tin foil, a nail file and some cuticle oil. Start by filing down the top coat of your colour and file down as much as you can without touching your natural nail. Then, soak the cotton pad in your acetone nail polish remover before placing it on the nail and wrapping tin foil around it to secure the cotton pad in place. Let that sit for at et least 10 minutes.

What is left on your nails should be loose and sticky in texture, this can be gently scraped away with a cuticle pusher. Finish off with some TLC by applying cuticle oil to the nail beds. We love Essie's Nail Care Cuticle Oil Apricot Treatment, £7.19, which boasts a nourishing and non-greasy formula.

Image credit: Instagram @thehotblend

BIAB nails at home?

Feeling skilled? The good news is you can apply BIAB nails at home, but only with patience and practice - it goes without saying that you'll get the best most longlating results if you go to a professional. Think you'd be a dab hand? Shop the BIAB at home IT kit below.

Shop: BIAB essentials

Gel Nail Allergies

Wondering if you could be allergic to your BIAB nail polish or gel nailsin general? The answer, it appears, is a yes - the British Association of Dermatologists has described artificial nail allergies in the UK as an “epidemic.” Dr Sonia Khorana, a GP with a special interest in dermatology weighs in. 'An acrylic compound in gel manicures can cause skin irritation or contact dermatitis. To get technical, it's usually caused by ingredients like methyl acrylate, nitrocellulose, tosylamide formaldehyde resin, camphor, dibutyl palate and some solvents.'

While the majority won't have any issues, it could be worth quitting if you feel like you're reacting to your mani - look out for blisters, swollen nail beds or even red rings around your cuticles.

Think you have a gel nail allergy? The Gel Bottle have newly launched HEMA-free formulations (in a range of spring ready colours) to minimise the chances of reaction

Rachael Martin is Grazia's Beauty Editor where she covers all things health, beauty and wellness

Main image credit: Instagram @corrinnabianca